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Ecuador Food and Restaurants
At only pennies per bite, bakeries offer a delicious range of breads, sweet pastries, and savory snacks, such as empanadas (hot, crispy meat- or cheese-filled turnovers) and llapingachos (cheesy potato pancakes). Dishes sold in the street are also quite cheap, but hygiene is often questionable, and you may quickly surpass your intestinal limits. A good rule to follow is the locals rule: if the place is frequented by many locals, the food probably merits joining the crowd.
Aji, hot sauce made from a spicy red pepper grown in the rainforest of Ecuador, compliments the regular diet of rice, potatoes, and meat. Most Ecuadorian restaurants and homes have their own version of aji. Some versions of the homemade aji are mostly tomato sauce, others are incredibly picante, spicy, so be sure to sample a bit before smothering your food. If you don't see a little bowl of aji on your table, just ask, they're sure to have it. In addition to aji, a mound of rice, a small salad and potatoes or patacones (squashed, fried green plantains) accompany basic dishes. On the coast and in the Amazon, potatoes are often supplemented or replaced by menestra (beans or lentils) or yucca.
Soups are without doubt Ecuador's specialty. The first course of most lunches and dinners is a savory soup rich with grains, vegetables and chicken or beef. Locro soup, made with cheese, avocado and potato, sounds a bit odd, but is actually quite tasty. Chupe de pescado, a fish and vegetable soup with coastal origins, is becoming popular throughout the country. Bolder diners can try yaguar locro, a potato soup made with sprinkings of cow blood. Those ready to throw their inhibitions completely to the wind should dip their spoon into caldo de pata, a broth containing chunks of boiled cow hooves, considered a delicacy by locals and believed by hopeful men to increase virility.
Other dishes found in your everyday restaurant or home include: seco de pollo (stewed chicken accompanied by rice and avocado slices); lomo salteado (thin beef steak covered with onions and tomatoes); and seco de chivo (goat stew served with a mound of rice. Tortillas de maiz (thin corn pancakes) and choclo (grilled Andean corn) are sold by street vendors and make great snacks any time of day.
If after your share of bull penis soup you find yourself hankering for a familiar brand burger, burrito, or pizza, don't panic -- the major cities feature (for better or worse) the omnipresent American fast food chains, such as Pizza Hut, Taco Bell, McDonalds and KFC as well as some higher-quality American chains like TGI Fridays, Applebees, Tony Romas and more.
Seafood
Seafood is popular and plentiful throughout Ecuador. Lobster dinners can be enjoyed along the coast and in major cities for very low prices. In Esmeraldas province on the northern coast, try the delicious "encocados," seafood dishes prepared in coconut milk.
The signature dish of the country, however, is ceviche, a seafood dish marinated in lime and onions -- Ecuador's answer to sushi. Unlike sushi however, Ecuadorian ceviche is always dished up with popcorn! Ceviche can be made of fish (de pescado), shrimp (de camarones), shellfish (de concha), squid (de calamari), or all of the above (mixta). Exercise caution, however, as improperly prepared ceviche --especially de concha-- has become one of the primary vectors for cholera and other nasty bacteria. Most restaurants are aware of this and act accordingly, but choose your dining establishment wisely.
Vegetarians
Vegetarians will be pleasantly surprised by the wide selection of vegetarian options in popular tourist destinations like Quito, Baos, Montaita etc. In smaller towns, however you will probably be stuck eating a lot of rice, oily salads and eggs.
International Cuisine
As an up-and-coming cosmopolitan city, Quito also offers a good selection of international cuisine. If you fancy Argentinean steak, Italian pasta, Japanese sushi, or French fondue, you won't be disappointed. Expect prices substansially lower than those in the United States or Europe but higher than local cuisine. Chinese, Mexican, Cuban, Arabic, Indian, and vegetarian meals are available in Quito at reasonable prices. Outside of Quito and Guayaquil, only Baos offers a good mixture of international cuisine.
Vocabulary of Food Preparation
A la brasa/A la plancha or A la parilla: grilled
Al vapor: steamed
Apanado: batter-fried/breaded
Brosterizado: deep-fried
Encocado: stewed in coconut
Frito: pan-fried
Hornado: roasted
Reventado: skillet-fried
Seco: stewed meat plate
Drinks
With the mouthwatering exotic fruits of Ecuador come delicious fruit juices, (jugos) including naranjilla (a cross between an orange and a tomato), tomate de arbol (tree tomato), mora (blackberry), guanabana (an almost milky, sweet, white juice), maracuya (passion fruit) and papaya.
Bottled and canned fizzy drinks (including Coca Cola, Sprite and Fanta) are widely available throughout the country, as are teas and coffees. In spite of Ecuador's status as a coffee producing country, Ecuadorians live on Nescafe imported from the United States, as the best beans are usually sent over the border. But if you are willing to pay slightly more, you can usually find a well-brewed cappuccino in big cities and tourist hotspots.
Chicha is a traditional libation found throughout Andean countries, made from fermented maiz, rice or yuca (manioc). In some rural parts of Ecuador, the fermentation process is augmented by human saliva: Chicha makers (typically women) chew the ingredients and spit them back in the pot to brew. As appetizing as that may sound, it is not at all hygienic and you will probably want to pass. A variety of Andean versions of Chicha exist that arent chewed and may be safe.
Not to be missed is the Andean drink of choice: canelazo (or canelito), a popular fiesta drink similar to a hot toddy, made of boiled water, sugar cane alcohol, lemon, sugar and cinnamon.
Good wine from Chile and Argentina is widely available. The cheapest way to enjoy the grape is in the form of a carton (yes, a box!) from the local supermarket. The quality is not the best and you wont get the glorious sound of a popping cork, but you'll pay only half the price. If your palate is a bit more finicky, fine wines from Chile, France, Spain, and Italy are also available.
Most bars serve local favorite beers of decent quality and very good value. The most popular brand is Pilsener, which comes in a large bottle. If you are a fan of Cuba Libres, Daiquiris or Pina Coladas, the local rum is great, as well as ridiculously cheap.
Use common sense, as with everything, and stick to bottled water over tap water. Remember that tap water is frequently used in ice, so request your beverages "sin hielo" (without ice) in restaurants.
Common Sense at the Table: A few tips
Allow yourself a bit of time to adjust intestinally; eat very cautiously the first few days and then slowly begin to venture out on a culinary limb. Keeping healthy is not only about avoiding germs, but also about acclimating to new ones. Many Ecuadorians complain about traveling to the States and getting sick from U.S. food or water, so it goes both ways!
Going against popular belief, food, rather than water, is usually the culprit of intestinal problems. Eating well-cooked, piping hot food, is possibly the best way to avoid problems. Avoid uncooked and under cooked foods. Salads should especially be avoided at first. Fruits that must be peeled before being eaten, such as bananas, pineapples, and oranges, are usually a safe bet!
Most (but not all!) tourist-frequented places understand the limitations of the gringo stomach and act accordingly in the kitchen. Food bought on the street, and in apparently unsanitary restaurants should be avoided.
Read up-to-date reviews of Ecuadorian cuisine and restaurants provided by V!VA Travel Guides.
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